Knitting Lefty Blog

ptbl (purl through the back loop)

shellygee — Sun, 06 Sep 2009 19:08:33 +0000

Bring yarn to the front (as you do with purling). Insert the left needle into the stitch behind the loop, throw the yarn over from the front and purl the stitch. Both ptbl and ktbl can be used for “twisting” a stitch at the beginning of a set.

ktbl (knit through the back loop)

shellygee — Sun, 06 Sep 2009 19:05:05 +0000

Take left needle (remember, this is for those of us whose yarn holding hand is on the right, working needle on the left) and insert it into the middle of the stitch, from the front through the back. Then knit the stitch. This will give the stitch a twisted effect.

Keeping it interesting.

shellygee — Sun, 06 Sep 2009 18:59:54 +0000

Do you ever burn out on a project? How do you keep yourself interested and motivated? I’m feeling totally done with knitting a baby blanket for my new nephew. I’ve been working on it (on and off) for the past 4 months – about 6 rows a day. I’ve learned that I stay more interested in a project if I use variegated yarn. While working on the blanket, I started using a knitting counter. I’ve found that it is a pretty essential tool to have in your knitting arsenal. I don’t know how I’ve completed other projects without it, especially when you need to stop often (I have a three-year old). There is a new product out there (at least new to me) called the “Knit Kit”. I’m not selling this product. I’m just telling you that it’s out there and I love it. Period. This product contains in one small hand-held size oval a retractable tape measure, small crochet hook (for picking up stitches), a small built-in yarn cutter and a compartment in the back for storing fold-up scissors, stoppers and place markers (all included). You can see the Knit Kit at:www.theknitkit.com. Rumor has it (from the gals at the knitting store) that it is also TSA approved so you can take it on a commercial airline without hassle. Don’t quote me on that one though. I find that the knitting counter also keeps me interested in the pattern and where I am at. I set row goals for myself and I guess my reward is putting the project away, happily knowing that I have made some progress. Let me know how you keep it interesting!

Back to the basics – taking a class

shellygee — Sun, 30 Aug 2009 05:52:28 +0000

I’ve been knitting for about 7 years now and had never taken a project class before. I decided to dive right in, how hard could it be? The class that I chose was the “Sari Silk Sock Yarn Wrap” class. Basic knitting stitches and knowledge required. The pattern includes stitches like ktbl (knit through the back loop) and ptbl (purl through the back loop). These stitches are very simple. However, throw in there wrapping the yarn, dropping stitches and a specific row counting scheme and it is enough to make you tear out the project. In fact, I had to rip the entire project out three times to get it right! I am now on the last 6 rows. The picture above shows the wrap in progress. The parts that appear stretched are made by wrapping the yarn three times after a knit or purl stitch. This gives it the woven appearance. See the “stitches” page to learn more about how to k/p tbl. If you have never taken a project class before, I would encourage you to. It’s amazing how much we forget the basics and parts of pattern reading when we don’t exercise our knitting brains!

Yeah, I steeked it.

shellygee — Tue, 30 Jun 2009 06:48:31 +0000

Knitting makes me want to create things that I wouldn’t otherwise dream of owning or buying. But a folk vest? The book’s gleaming celtic cover promised me that I could look hip and elfish (or is it elvish?) at the same time. Sweet. Not enough of that going around.

One hour later I was leaving the local knit shop with a bag full of wool earth tones and that book. Sitting at home looking through my needle stash, I had a moment. I kept denying it. I could do the pattern in the book, but it would be so much cooler to knit it like a tube and then cut the arm holes, front and neck line. Steeking. It had such a nice ring to it. Wouldn’t it be great to make it and then tell fellow knitters (as I shrugged) “yeah, I steeked it.” Just like that. So nonchalant. Stinking steeking.

My tube started growing and growing. My daughter mistook it for a hat and then as it grew, a sleeping bag…that’s a problem. At twenty-five inches tall into my project, I realized that my beautiful vest now had a big enough circumference to make a nice tree-cozy. Amateur mistake (reference my hate for “measuring gauge” in previous post). I guessed at this point I was going to have the biggest elf vest ever made.

A local town near me has an International Accordion Festival which seems to have a pretty good elf-loving type demographic. I could probably wear it there and fit right in. No matter that I’m not a fan of accordion or vest wearing (regardless of size). The promise of a whole new subculture awaits me.

Measuring gauge…blah, boo, hiss

shellygee — Sat, 20 Jun 2009 21:38:54 +0000

Measuring a gauge is one of my most dreaded knitting preparations. In fact, I’ll admit that I refused to measure my gauge until last year. It seemed too much trouble and I liked to just go for it. The impulse of the project quickly seemed to die if I had to “waste” a knitting session to get a gauge before I could even start the project. After ripping out countless projects, I now know the value of this step and force myself to do it. Measuring the gauge validates the needle size and yarn choice. For those of who hold our yarn in our left hand, measuring the gauge holds no different techniques from those who hold the yarn in the right. Follow the instructions for gauge as indicated on your pattern.

The basics: The pattern that you are working from will indicate the gauge that you need, usually in the form of a small grid with inches indicated on the horizontal and vertical axis. In general, make your swatch 4″ x 4″. What this means is that you should cast on enough stitches to get 4″ worth of measuring. If you cast on anywhere between 50-65 stitches you are usually well over the 4″ necessary. Just do the stockinette stitch (knit one row, then purling the next) until you have 4″ vertical (unless your pattern calls for a different stitch for the gauge swatch- read carefully). You should be able to tell where your rows are by the stitches (count the “V’s”). Get a ruler and count the stitches across for 4″ (without stretching) and the same for number of rows. This will give you the gauge. It’s best to measure on a flat section, not a curled end. Marking the beginning and end of the 4″x 4″ section with safety pins or straight pins will help you count. If you do not have the gauge they are calling for, then you may need to tighten your stitches, loosen your stitches, change needle sizes or yarn thickness.

Make one (M1) increasing to the right.

shellygee — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 21:17:42 +0000

I’ve found this particular stitch as a left-handed knitter to be a hair pulling experience. It did take many attempts to master it. I had to do at least 6 swatches using both increasing to the right and to the left before it fully sunk in. If you try to follow instructions for this stitch in a knitting book, please be aware that as a left-handed knitter you must not only reverse the order of the needles, but that the path of the stitches is reversed (under when it says over, through the front when it says from the back, etc.). The most common use of a Make one (M1) in a pattern is to increase the stitches in the inside of a row, not at the beginning or the end. This makes for a less obvious increase and a really nice finished product. Basically think of it as a plant chute, all stitches start growing off the sides of the middle. A M1 as a left-handed knitter will slope to the right when using a stockinette stitch. So, here are the steps to do a M1 (increasing to the right):

Work (knit) to the stitch that you want the increase (most likely the pattern will have you placing markers throughout the project).
Pull the needles apart slightly and look for the strand of yarn from the previous row that is between your two needles.
Slip the left-hand needle over this strand and pull up.
From the back slip the right hand needle through, leaving the stitch on the right hand needle.
Knit into the front of the loop on the right hand needle.
You have increased the row by one stitch.

In order to make your rows symmetrical, you would need to increase to the left within the same row. Directions for a M1 increase to the left will be in another post.

Getting Started… knitting impossible?

shellygee — Sat, 13 Jun 2009 20:04:47 +0000

Although most knitting books will tell you that some knitting techniques are quite difficult or verge on impossible for those of us left-handed knitters, I have to disagree. It’s true, more patience is required and knitting patterns may have to be adapted to fit your unique knitting style. Right-handed knitters cast on to their left needle, and then work from left needle to right. If learning from a right- handed knitter, sit opposite of them and mirror their actions. I’ve learned a lot from observing traditional right-handed knitters as they knit their projects. I have found that the Scottish or Continental method of knitting and purling works much easier as a lefty than the English method.

When any knitter (left or right-handed) begins, it is often easier to hold one needle steady (the needle you are throwing the stitches on to) by tucking it under your arm or holding it in place in the crook of where your leg meets your abdomen. I used this technique probably longer than I should of, but you’ll find yourself moving on from it once you have mastered the feel of the needles (and want to move on to circulars!)

Knitting Lefty

shellygee — Sat, 13 Jun 2009 19:12:18 +0000

Started on June 13, 2009. This new blog will follow the ins and outs of left-handed knitting. Check in for tips and ways to make your left-handed knitting less daunting.